Impeller
The pump. Bolted directly to the engine, its curved fins fling transmission fluid outward as it spins. This is what starts the energy moving.
Service · Torque Converter Repair
The handshake between engine and gearbox — rebuilt right.
In a manual car, the clutch joins engine and gearbox. In an automatic, that job belongs to the torque converter — a sealed fluid coupling that not only transmits power but multiplies it. When it’s tired, every shift feels off. When it fails, the whole transmission feels broken. We rebuild them properly — daily drivers, fleet, heavy-duty and racing alike.
Inside the converter
Four parts. One sealed fluid handshake.
A torque converter is a doughnut-shaped fluid coupling. Inside it, two finned wheels face each other across a pool of transmission fluid — one bolted to the engine, the other to the gearbox. A small wheel between them, plus a clutch, do the rest.
Turbine
The catcher. Connected to the transmission input shaft, its fins absorb the moving fluid and transfer that energy back into rotation — turning the gearbox.
Stator
The redirector. Sitting between impeller and turbine on a one-way clutch, the stator catches returning fluid and bounces it back into the impeller — turning torque multiplication on at low speeds.
Lock-up clutch
The bypass. Above a certain speed, this clutch mechanically links impeller and turbine, eliminating fluid slip. That’s what gives modern automatics their highway fuel economy.
When it goes wrong
Six failures specific to the converter.
Many transmission complaints actually originate inside the converter, not the gearbox itself. Recognising the difference is the first thing we test for.
Lock-up clutch failure
Shudder at cruising speed, hot fluid, sometimes a stored TCM code. The clutch friction surface is worn or the apply circuit is leaking pressure.
Stator one-way clutch
Poor low-speed acceleration with normal high-speed performance — the stator clutch has failed, robbing the converter of torque multiplication.
Ballooning
The converter shell physically deforms outward under high pressure or temperature, throwing balance off and damaging the front pump on the gearbox side.
Contamination
Friction debris and metal fines circulating from a worn gearbox or a previous failure. The converter is a sealed reservoir — once contaminated, it will contaminate any new fluid in turn.
Vibration & imbalance
A noticeable hum or buzz at specific RPMs. The converter is a balanced rotating assembly — a single bent fin or worn bushing throws everything off.
Bushing & thrust wear
Internal bushings and thrust washers wear and allow the assembly to drift axially. You feel it as a subtle slip and see it as elevated fluid temperature.
How we rebuild a converter
Cut. Clean. Rebuild. Reweld. Balance.
Torque converters are sealed at the factory by welding two halves together. Rebuilding one means cutting that weld, doing the work, and re-welding the assembly back to spec — balanced, leak-tested, ready for the road.
01
Cut
The factory weld is machined open on a dedicated lathe, exposing the internals for inspection.
02
Dismantle & clean
Impeller, turbine, stator and lock-up clutch are stripped. Every component is washed, inspected and measured against spec.
03
Replace
Bushings, thrust washers, lock-up friction material, stator one-way clutch and seals replaced with OEM or upgraded components as appropriate.
04
Reassemble & weld
The converter is reassembled, indexed, and re-welded with a continuous bead. Weld quality is checked before pressure testing.
05
Balance
The complete assembly is dynamically balanced to under-spec runout. An out-of-balance converter ruins the gearbox it bolts to.
06
Pressure test
Every rebuild leaves the workshop pressure-tested for leaks. A leaking converter wrecks gearboxes — we don’t fit them.
Pick the right build
Three build levels — from family car to race car.
A daily-driver converter doesn’t need a billet front cover. A 700hp build won’t survive without one. We spec each rebuild to the application — and we won’t sell you parts you don’t need.
For daily & family cars
OEM-spec rebuild
The standard rebuild for any car that’s used as a car. Designed to match or outlast factory life under normal UAE conditions.
- OEM-grade lock-up friction material
- New bushings, thrust washers and seals
- Refreshed stator one-way clutch
- Standard balancing and pressure test
- Workshop-backed warranty
For 4WD, fleet & tow vehicles
Heavy-duty build
Built for vehicles that work for a living — SUVs that tow, fleet vans that idle in heat, and 4WDs that take loads off-road.
- High-energy lock-up friction material
- Reinforced thrust washers and bushings
- Anti-balloon plate where applicable
- Heat-tolerant seal compounds
- Higher-pressure leak test
- Optional auxiliary cooler advice
For performance & racing
Performance build
Custom-stall, high-output builds for modified engines and the racing public — specified to your power figures and intended use.
- Custom stall speed — tuned to your engine
- Billet front cover (where required)
- Furnace-brazed impeller fins
- Multi-disc lock-up clutch
- Hardened stator one-way clutch
- Race-spec dynamic balance
Ready to talk specs
Tell us about the car. We’ll spec the right converter.
Daily commute, fleet duty, towing rig, weekend track car — each one wants something different from a converter. Bring the car in, or call to discuss the build.
Speak to a technician
+971 6 543 4391
Or message us on mobile: +971 50 482 8460
Email: info@alqustas.com